The Calm Before the Storm…
When I was a kid, I’d spend my summers going to the beach with one of my brothers to spend the day body surfing. I recall one afternoon being way out in the water with my brother at Sydney’s Cronulla beach. There were these massive swells creating these brutal waves that if you could catch them would take you gliding in all the way to the sandy shore. If you didn’t, it would still take you to the shore but by dragging you along the bottom requiring you to hold your breath the entire time. Since you had to catch them quite a distance away from the shore, this meant for quite some time... more